I hope you didn’t step into your garden during or after all the wonderful mini showers we had. This is certainly the fine way so that the rain enters our impoverished soil – little, then more, then little, then a few days of procrastination, so that all the water in the interstices of the air thoroughly moistens the soil particles, and then continues to flow into the SOIL PROFILE. But this process takes days, and it is important for you not to walk on the floor, compressing it only with your weight, during this time.
In fact, their weight squeezes the water from the interstices, compressing the soil particles. The problem is that you do not decompress when you finish walking there-it’s a permanent compression. When drying, a crushed solid brick remains, which can no longer absorb moisture. Even in the tracks, this is not a good thing, because it reduces the available area for moisture.
This is the time when I do myself the honor of doing other activities related to the garden, such as sorting my seeds that I will sow after, preparing my seed containers, repotting potted plants, cleaning and sharpening tools, browsing garden catalogs or anything that is not in the garden.
This is the perfect time to visit your favorite kindergartens, to buy plants that you will plant after, after about a week to get used to the microclimate of your garden. You can even buy bareroot roses and dip the roots in water overnight to fully moisten them before planting.
Even for my pruning tasks-roses and fruit trees-and certainly also for planting bareroot roses and fruit trees-I will postpone them until there has been no new rain for several days. After all, we do not need to complete these tasks by mid-February at the after. This is usually the time when really active growth begins – the buds swell, color and begin to open – so this is a great time to see what happens and what decisions are made in size.
Will you receive a gift amaryllis?
Amaryllis, which has just finished flowering, can be grown evergreen in autumn, indoors or outdoors, and bloom again next winter. The flowering stem can be cut about an inch above where it emerges from the bulb, or left to dry naturally-this will allow the plant to resume energy and store it for the next flowering.
Put the plant in a warm sunny place, water generously and fertilize regularly until August.
Then let the plant rest a little, without fertilizer and just enough moisture to barely keep the soil moist. Be sure not to let the plant dry at any time, otherwise the growth cycle will be disrupted, and it may skip or delay the next flowering.
In September, move the plant to a sunny spot, but where daytime temperatures are in the 70s and nighttime temperatures are above 55. Start watering and fertilizing — with phosphorus-and potash-rich foods (the last two numbers of The N-P-K trio) and pay attention to the buds. They can even have two or three separate flower follow.
In the first year, they may not have flowering, as the plant adapts to its new conditions and light calendar.